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I heard a rumor that a ‘celebrity’ chef was going to open a restaurant in Leawood some months back.
Sure enough, one evening I got a call to switch on the Food Network’s popular show, “Chopped,” to watch Chef Aarón Sánchez.
“And what’s the scoop on the restaurant?” I asked.
“He’s decided Park Place will be the setting for his new 7,200-square-foot restaurant come December,” said my foodie friend on the other end of the line, practically salivating.
And so it’s come to pass—Mestizo, or a mélange of cultures representing Mexican natives and Spanish and Latin American influences—has opened.
Sánchez, no slouch in the culinary arena, already has a notable reputation as one of the country’s leading contemporary Latin chefs. Two New York restaurants, Centrico and Tacombi, Food Network star on “Chopped” and “Heat Seekers” and cookbook author underscore this capable chef who’s bound to bring glamour to our outpost.
A blueprint for success
When all was sparkly in December, Chowhound and I decided to salsa our way into Sánchez’ two-story emporium in the hip and happening Park Place.
Chowhound mused, “This is one beautiful room. Terra cotta colored walls, generous bar impressively designed around a metal Tree of Life sculpture, mosaic accents, wooden beams, rock walls, it’s snazzy.”
Our server, Jessica, greeted us.
We found out she’s studying Civil Engineering but learned that despite that diversion, she was adept at explaining the menu that reads like the “Joy of Mexican Cooking.”
“Aarón learned many of his dishes from his madré, celebrated Mexican cook, Zarela Martinez, owner of her own New York restaurant,” she said. “The dishes are designed to share from the starters, sopas and ensaladas, botanas (small plates), to raw bar (cevicheria) and entrees (platos fuertes).”
“So, what do you suggest?” I asked, scooping up fire-roasted salsa onto delightfully crunchy chips.
“For starters, how about trying Nopales cactus steaks ($6) and a trio of tres salsas ($6)?”
We dug in but the sticks of cactus were far too mild, even sided with a semi-piquant chile de arbol remoulade.
Decidedly better: the tomatillo-avocado, grilled pineapple and fire roasted salsas. “Personally, I think they could use more heat,” said Chowhound. I, however, found them just right.
Small plates of sopes ($10), three half-dollar size rounds of masa topped with black beans, tomatillo-avocado salsa and cotija cheese, hit the spot as did the Pepita (pumpkin) Crusted Scallops in a roasted corn picadillo ($12).
Moving along, we studied the ceviche but neither of us are fans of fish bathed in citrus juices. If you are, there are four different blends from the raw bar to consider.
Meanwhile Jessica arrived with an homage to Sanchez’ familia. We selected a bowl of arroz con crema, which translates to Zarela’s creamy rice dish. Originally this was his mom’s recipe and if it’s good enough for her, it’s good enough for us—and it was—satisfyingly rich and hearty for a winter’s evening ($9).
“I’ll have the fish taco,” I decided and Chowhound, for some unknown reason, had to try the braised tongue taco. “I hope you follow that with something I can taste,” I said, then heard him add, “How about the braised Jalisco style short ribs ($22)?”
“You have a second stomach?” I wondered aloud.
“If you have a margarita, you won’t feel a thing,” he sniffed.
Three grilled mahi-mahi soft-shelled tacos arrived with an avocado and grilled pineapple salsa ($12). Hunky and flavorful, I give this dish a thumbs-up.
Chowhound doesn’t care for the braised tongue until I see him slather it with tomatillo salsa and then report, “Better.”
Ample is hardly the word for two, fork-tender short ribs bathed in an ancho chile broth that is next on board. “Way too much,” Chowhound sputtered briefly, coming up for air.
“This isn’t man versus food,” I said, noting he can take half home.
We revived after a bit of downtime, admiring the beautiful surroundings and took a moment to inspect the nearby fresh bar area where made-from-scratch tortillas pop right off the hot grill.
The upstairs, we discovered, is primarily an outdoor bar easily holding 125 people. It’s heated in the winter and overlooks the ice rink. In the summer, it will be a delightful second-story patio. “Spice near ice,” I thought. “People can watch the skaters, while they have flights of tequila or mojitos.”
“You have to sample dessert,” said Jessica, handing us churros, sugary pastry strips otherwise known as Spanish doughnuts ($7) and a delightful coconut flan ($6).
“These are wonderful,” said Chowhound.
I begged him to leave me a crumb. “And so is the flan,” I added, guarding the last bite.
Sánchez, who plans on frequenting Mestizo to occasionally film Food Network episodes while overseeing his restaurant, has a hit as far as I’m concerned.
Can’t wait to meet this celeb hot shot—should be a real kick. Just like his food.
Mestizo
5270 W. 116th Place
Leawood, Kan.
(913) 752-9025
mestizoleawood.com
Gloria Gale is an Overland Park-based food writer. “On the Menu” is not a restaurant review, it is a summary of dining out in Johnson County and the area.
