PrintA Skier's Mountain
It’s Day Three of a weeklong Enchanted Circle ski odyssey in New Mexico, and the stopwatch is running out on the solemn promise I made before leaving Overland Park.
I will stand up on skis, I will ski down a run, I will have fun.
You see, I am what ski instructors call a “never-ever skier.” I belong to a small group of people who have never strapped on a pair of skis, never applied ChapStick liberally during a prolonged romp on the slopes of Breckenridge or Vail and never checked out the après ski scene in Winter Park or Aspen.
The sport has been on my bucket list for decades, but I always find something else to occupy my vacation: Europe, a cruise, Hawaii, Miami. I prefer travel that doesn’t require swooshing down snow-packed hills, risking life and limb and awakening my mild fear of heights. But that’s just me—I’m more of a boots-literally-on-the-ground adventurer.
I’ve chosen the Enchanted Circle for my winter escape; it’s a scenic byway that loops through 83 miles of diverse terrain in north central New Mexico. Centered around Wheeler Peak, the highest point in the state at 13,160 feet, the Circle includes mountains, valleys, mesa and national forest and three of the four ski resorts I’m visiting in my quest to become a beginner: Taos Ski Valley (TSV), Red River Ski Area and Angel Fire Ski Resort.
Every fall I visit Santa Fe when the leaves are in full color and it’s Fiesta de Santa Fe. Eager to see the majestic Sangre de Cristo Mountains cloaked in snow, I pack my new ski duds from Sitzmark and head for the airport ready—or not—to start my ski adventure.
Beginning … again and again
The latter part of my pledge—the fun quotient—requires little work or courage. Following a short non-stop flight from KCI to Albuquerque, I make the quick jaunt to Santa Fe. Following dinner at 315 Bistro, one of my favorite restaurants off the square, I loll in front of a fireplace in my room on the concierge floor of the fabled La Fonda on the Plaza. A fortifying breakfast of huevos motuleños at Café Pasqual’s community table the next morning prepares me for a day of private lessons at Ski Santa Fe, a picturesque family-friendly ski area nestled in the mountains outside the city.
My determination to get upright isn’t dampened today, even though I don’t graduate from the beginner’s hill at Ski Santa Fe. I decide after several non-acrobatic tumbles that my “never-ever ski” status should be demoted to “What were you thinking?” After spending the bulk of the day with a patient instructor named Tom, I grab a to-go cup of thick Mexican hot chocolate and hop into the SUV for the geographically stunning 90-minute drive to Taos Ski Valley.
Pulling into the charming artist’s town of Taos, I continue the short trip to the mountain. My resolve is renewed. Tomorrow I will tackle one of the so-called most exhilarating and daunting ski experiences in the west.
Ski here, ski anywhere
I check into a condo with ski in/ski out accommodations at dusk, a crimson sunset having illuminated my yellow brick road into the famed Taos Ski Valley. My dinner reservations are at the Hotel St. Bernard, a Bavarian-like structure circa-1960 where cult-like groupies comprised of international and domestic skiers stay. The hotel’s proprietor, Jean Mayer, has planned a robust meal with an ample amount of wine being poured and consumed.
One of my dinner partners is Adriana Blake—granddaughter of Ernie Blake, the founder of TSV—and something of a celebrity. Adriana is low-key and humble, but word quickly spreads that skiing royalty is in the room. People quietly approach her, always mentioning Ernie with reverence and respect. In return, Adriana is gracious and welcoming.
The petite California skier flanking my other side is a woman who enrolls annually in Ski Week immersion like it’s a religious pilgrimage. She whispers that Adriana’s grandfather is considered a pioneer in the ski industry, a legend who developed the ski capital of the southern Rockies. Ernie was born in Germany, reared in Switzerland and immigrated to the United States in 1938. A permanent resident of New Mexico beginning in 1949, Ernie found the remote mining town of Twining, 19 miles northeast of Taos, to be the perfect canvas for his dream of a ski park. Taos Ski Valley opened its mountain to skiers in 1955.
First course is served—a bubbling mini-tureen of fragrant onion soup au gratin; I listen to the chatter, enjoying the vibe, the glowing fireplaces, skiers fresh from the slopes. Mayer serves dinner, a lovely peppered steak and lamb medallions with garlic. I share with Adriana that I am a never-ever skier and immediately she utters the most motivating words I will hear all week.
“If you can ski here, you can ski anywhere in the world,” she says. “You’ll do fine.”
It’s a phrase I’ll hear repeated tomorrow by my instructor and even a pint-sized snowboarder who offers an encouraging double thumbs-up after I lose my balance on the magic carpet that dumps me out on the Bunny Hill.
Nonetheless, tonight as I finish dessert at Hotel St. Bernard, I am buoyed by the prospect of learning to ski at TSV.
That, I think, will be something worthy of a Facebook status.
Mission accomplished … at last!
Day 4 dawns bright and crisp; I am fitted for boots and skis and meet my instructor, Tom. I cross my fingers, hoping this isn’t like a scene from “Groundhog Day”—yesterday’s instructor was Tom, too.
We maneuver to the Bunny Hill, and Tom is eager to make an honest skier out of me. The morning flies by as I gain confidence and even a bit of skill. I learn to get on and off a chair lift and falls are minimal. Tom is obviously pleased that he is making progress with this never-ever who is emerging from her shell.
After lunch, I practice the basics and am entertained by Tom’s stories of the famous Taos ridge, which boasts some of the most difficult, unspoiled terrain of any ski area in the country, and his experiences on the double-black-diamond terrain. I’m content with standing up on my skis, and letting the poles become my friends.
“Remember,” says Tom as we part, “trust your instincts.”
Day 4 ends with two parts of my pledge achieved. I finally make the triangle complete on Day 6 at Angel Fire Ski Resort.
l stand up on skis, l ski down a run, I have fun.
It takes me two-and-a-half hours to complete a three-mile green run—interestingly named ‘Coming Home’—and graduation day arrives. But I still consider Taos Ski Valley as inspiration for my small victory.
Speed, style and daring? I’ll work on that during my next ski trip. For now, the euphoria I felt schussing down a groomed run, thus making good on my self-imposed promise, is satisfaction enough.
Next year I’ll concentrate on trusting my instincts.
For more information, visit www.stbernardtaos.com
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Just the Facts:
Taos Ski Valley at a Glance
• Average annual snowfall: 305 inches
• Average days of sunshine: 300+ days
• Total acreage: 1,294 acres
• Number of trails: 110 total; 24 percent beginner; 25 percent intermediate; 51 percent expert
• Number of lifts: 13
• Base elevation: 9,207 feet
• Kachina Peak elevation: 12,481 feet
• Vertical drop: 2,612 feet
For more information on Taos Ski Valley, visit www.skitaos.org.
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Feel The Magic
Taos Ski Valley (TSV), one of the few remaining family-owned and operated resorts in North America, has the amenities and world-class skiing of well-known Colorado resorts, but with fewer crowds and less glitz. Its celebrated history draws dedicated ski aficionados from across the globe who want to experience the indescribable mojo, spectacular runs and vertical drops that are TSV trademarks.
Part of TSV’s ambience is the Hotel St. Bernard, built in 1960 by Frenchman Jean Mayer’s family. Reminiscent of the great European alpine traditions, the hotel’s warm and inviting dining room and superbly stocked bar serve as the mountain’s social hub. Affectionately dubbed St. B’s by the regulars—and there are many who come back annually for the Ski Week immersion—meals are planned, executed and served by Mayer himself, who is also technical director of TSV. Ski-in/ski-out hotel rooms are available at the delightfully rustic St. B’s, and condos are just a short walk to the lifts. Seven-night packages and children’s programs are available.
